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Friday, November 27, 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Psycho Ward
Psycho Ward surf film movie download trailer Psycho Ward video Psycho Ward telecharger gratuit Psycho Ward free surf films Psycho Ward watch the movie for free watch online Psycho Ward streaming surf film movie Psycho Ward
Chris Ward is an enigma. He travels around and rips as hard as anyone on the tour, but he does his traveling and ripping quietly. A documentary on Chris was long overdue. The documentary-style movie that features Wardo at his best. Most of the footage is raw and medium quality, but that fits Ward well; he's a working man's hero.
Release: 1990s
Language: English
Subtitles: No
Audio Codec: AAC
Audio Bitrate: 192 kbps
Video Codec: h264
Video Bitrate: 2524 kbps
Resolution: 958x460
Size: 700 MB
Length: 36 min
Release: 1990s
Language: English
Subtitles: No
Audio Codec: AAC
Audio Bitrate: 192 kbps
Video Codec: h264
Video Bitrate: 2524 kbps
Resolution: 958x460
Size: 700 MB
Length: 36 min
Marc Lacomare joins exclusive DC global surf team
Marc Lacomare : photos courtesy DC
DC Team News
5-year deal includes both footwear and apparel
Reigning ASP European Junior Champion, Marc Lacomare from Hossegor, France, re-signed with the DC Surf Team this week at the DC flagship store in Hossegor, France. The 5-year deal continues Lacomare’s existing two-year relationship with DC as he joins pros Bruce Irons, Dane Reynolds, and Ry Craike and amateurs Dillon Perillo, Garrett Parkes, Jayke Sharpe and Jack Robinson on the exclusive global team.
Lacomare, a multiple French junior champion, is the first rider in the history of the DC Surf program to represent the brand’s apparel in addition to footwear. “We would like to congratulate Lacomare on his ASP European junior championship title, and look forward to integrating him into our global surf apparel and footwear initiatives for 2010,” said Tim English, Action Sports Manager for DC.
A mainstay on the European and junior contest circuits for the last few years, the 19-year-old clinched his maiden ASP European Pro Junior title only a few days ago in the Canaries. Other notable competition highlights include third place at the World Junior Championships in Narrabeen (January 2009), runner-up at the inaugural Oakley Global Challenge in Bali (October 2008), two victories at Pro Junior events in 2009 (Hossegor and Estoril), and ISA European Junior Champion 2008.
Marc Lacomare : photo Aquashot/ASP Europe
About re-signing and being added to the apparel program, Lacomare said, “I've been with DC for two years now and have a really good relationship with everyone in the Company. I love the brand and it was a natural step to stay with DC and continue to help promote not only the footwear, but also the apparel collection. DC is giving me the chance to make a name for myself in the US and worldwide. I’m also stoked to work with DC on videos and other projects.”
Looking forward, Lacomare has one year (2010) on the Pro Junior circuit left, but will concentrate more on the big leagues. “I already did a couple of World Qualifying Series (WQS) contests this year to work on my seeding for 2010. I will hit the WQS full time next year, but my eyes are also firmly fixed on the World Junior Champs in Narrabeen and the Oakley Global Challenge.”
On September 22nd, 2009 he will compete in the Quik Pro trials for a spot in the main event, and on October 7th he’ll compete in the Oakley Global Challenge in Bali.
Marc Lacomare : photo Aquashot/ASP Europe
Matthieu Bazil, General Manager for DC Europe, concluded, “Marc has accomplished a lot since joining DC. We believe that Marc is the future of European surfing and that he will enjoy great success in competition. Marc reflects perfectly the DC image through his talent, personality, and performance.”
In addition to DC Footwear and Apparel, Lacomare is sponsored by Oakley, Monster Energy, Channel Islands Surfboards, FCS and Bidonvilla Sushibar. For more information on Lacomare and the rest of the DC Surf Team, check out dcshoes.com/surf.
About DC: Founded by Ken Block and Damon Way in 1993, DC quickly grew to a leader in performance skateboarding shoes and renowned action sports brand. Today DC stands as a global brand whose product line has expanded to include men’s, women’s and kids’ skateboarding and lifestyle shoes, apparel, snowboards, snowboard boots, outerwear, and accessories.
As one of the cornerstones of its marketing strategy, DC has built a world-class team of professional skateboarding, snowboarding, surfing, BMX, motocross and rally athletes that exemplify and enhance DC’s brand, develop its signature products, and support its promotional efforts. DC is a subsidiary of Quiksilver, Inc.
Final 28 invitees and 24 alternates named for the Eddie
Grant Baker : photo Barry Tuck/Red Bull
Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational in Memory of Eddie Aikau
Fueled by Monster
ASP Specialty Event
Waimea Bay Oahu, Hawaii
1 December 2009 - 28 February 2010
South Africa's Grant Baker Selected to Compete
Public voting for the 25th running of the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational In Memory Of Eddie Aikau , the world's premier big wave surfing event, has ended and the final 28 invitees and 24 alternates have been announced. While dominated by Hawaiians, the 28 invitees include some of the most respected big wave surfers in the world, among them Durban charger Grant 'Twiggy' Baker.
"Getting selected to compete in the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational is a dream come true," said Baker, who is currently in the United States. "It is one of the most prestigious contests in the world, and to be one of the 28 surfers in contention is a huge honour for me and the culmination of years of dedicated work and training."
Baker's rise to the top of the international big wave scene has been meteoric, with the past two years firmly establishing the lithe natural-footer as one of the most fearless surfers on the planet. His rise to prominence in the international big wave fraternity has seen Baker win every big wave surfing event on the planet except the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational In Memory Of Eddie Aikau.
These include the Mavericks Big Wave contest, the Red Bull Big Wave Africa at Dungeons in Cape Town, and the Quiksilver Punta de Lobos Big Wave Chile. Baker also won the 2009 XXL Biggest Wave Award and the XXL Best Overall Performance Award after towing into a wave at Tafelberg Reef off Cape Town that has been heralded as one of the largest waves ever ridden.
"To have a shot at adding 'The Eddie' to the list is incredible for me," said Baker, "and I'm committed to giving it my all. I just hope that Neptune comes to the party and gives us the waves we need for the event to run this year."
Commonly known as 'The Eddie', the contest will run over one day between 1 December 2009, and 28 February 2010, when waves at Waimea Bay, Oahu, Hawaii, reach a minimum of 20 feet and will see the 28 big wave specialists competing for US$98,000 in prize money.
Other top surfers on the list of invitees include nine time world surfing champion and 2002 Eddie winner Kelly Slater; Waimea stand-out and the first surfer to get tubed at "The Bay", Brock Little; and Brazilian waterman Carlos Burle. Aside from Slater, there are three other former world champions on the invitee list: Andy Irons, Tom Carroll, and Sunny Garcia; and also five of the other past Eddie winners: Bruce Irons, Noah Johnson, Keone Downing, Ross Clark-Jones and Clyde Aikau (Eddie's younger brother).
The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau is staged in honour of Waimea Bay's first official lifeguard and Hawaii's most famous big-wave rider. A humble Hawaiian surfer, Aikau set the bar for big wave riding at Waimea Bay in the '60s and '70s. A natural born waterman, Eddie saved countless lives during his watch as a Waimea Bay lifeguard.
He also traveled as one of the first touring professional surfers in the mid-'70s when he was ranked among the world's top 16. During his travels Eddie touched countless lives around the world as he voluntarily delivered a personal message of aloha from Hawaii, often accompanied by his younger brother Clyde and their slack-key guitar playing that was famous for bringing people together.
Eddie lost his life too soon, at the age of 31, during an ill-fated voyage of the Hokule'a sailing canoe in 1978. En-route to Tahiti from Oahu, the Hokule'a capsized in the Molokai Channel in heavy weather and giant seas, injuring several crew members. Aikau was last seen paddling for the Hawaiian Islands to get help. His life, spirit of aloha, and passion for the ocean and mankind is celebrated annually through this big wave event. It is arguably the most famous story in surfing.
A fitting tribute to Aikau, "The Eddie" has grown to be the world's longest-running and most respected big wave contest. First staged at Sunset Beach in the winter of 1984/85 then moved to Waimea in 1985/86, it has been held just seven times in its 25 year history. Its strict adherence to wave height stipulations has only served to underscore the authenticity and importance of the event. Past champions are Denton Miyamora (1985), Clyde Aikau (1986), Keone Downing (1990), Noah Johnson (1999), Ross Clarke-Jones (2001), Kelly Slater (2002), and Bruce Irons (2004).
This year's list of invitees is dominated by Hawaiians, but includes big wave riders from Australia, South Africa, Brazil, Chile, Japan, Euskadi (Spain) and mainland USA. The Eddie has only run seven times in the past 24 years. You don’t want to miss it when the Bay calls the momentous day. Go to www.quiksilver.com/eddie for swell updates, happenings from the North Shore, and to sign up for text alerts, to make sure you’re the first to know when the Bay calls the day!
How do you cry
didn't hear about the great right-hand reef-break of Nusa Dua until I was already on the plane heading home from my first trip to Bali in April 1975. The previous week I'd struggled in on-shore slop at Kuta Beach, while unknown to me Nusa Dua, on the other side of the island, was 8 foot, glassy and uncrowded. Feeling like an idiot on the plane home, I realised I'd missed out heavily!
clipboardMy next trip to Bali was at Christmas 1977, and I was determined to check out this fabled long, powerful right-hander. However, Kuta was offshore for my first week, so I warmed up in the Legian beachbreaks before venturing out to score excellent Kuta Reef. Once I even got to surf Kuta Reef totally alone at 6 foot plus. Although hollow reef waves still scared me with their power and thickness, I felt I was ready to now tackle Uluwatu. But the next morning the wind had swung around to onshore, which meant it would be offshore on the other side of the island at Nusa Dua
So I hopped on my rented 100cc motorbike and headed eagerly towards Nusa Dua. This was before the luxury tourist development, and the old road was terribly corrugated, making it a one-hour torture-trip, rarely out of second gear. The board carry-strap cut into my shoulder as I hit every mud-filled pothole. Huge construction trucks roared past spraying mud and stones into my face, but I persevered with thoughts of perfect, uncrowded rights in my mind. I had been told in hushed tones that Nusa Dua was the Sunset Beach of Bali, often very big and always thick and powerful. Today I felt ready for the challenge> The Nusa Dua village back in 1977 was just a small collection of mostly bamboo thatch houses lining a dirt track. I got lost a couple of times before finding someone who spoke a little English. For the Nusa Dua locals it was still a unique sight to see a visiting surfer. At least a hundred schoolkids raced out to line the little dirt track, waving and smiling as I rode by. I tried to wave back, while dodging potholes and keeping my board from floating out into the oncoming traffic. "Hello Mister" was the extent of their English. Their big smiles made me wish I could stop and chat, but I spoke no Indonesian then, so all I could do was just smile and ride past. For many years after, that street was known to all surfers as "Hello Street".
Finally arriving at the beach, I was confronted by a wide lagoon with waves breaking far out to sea on a coral reef. The reef was easily the furthest out of any I had ever seen, well over 500 metres from the beach to the breaking waves. The only person on the beach was a Balinese guy named Made who I later got to know quite well and regard as a good friend. But this first time at Nusa Dua, he just waved me over to his empty little warung on the sand, smiling a greeting to the first surfer he had seen in ages. It was the start of the surf season on the Nusa Dua side of the island. "Hello. Is this Nusa Dua?" I asked, probably sounding like a real kook. "Yes, this Nusa Dua. Wave not very big today." I was pleased he spoke English. "Where do you surf?" I hoped he'd direct me to some easy break in the reef, close to shore. Instead he just pointed to the furthest whitewater on the very outside reef almost a kilometre away. My heart missed a beat, pondering a surf so far out. "Is anybody else out there?" "No. Surf small today. Maybe good tomorrow>
The waves didn't look so small to me - maybe a solid 4 to 6 feet, but it was hard to judge from so far away. Friends had told me to walk to the far end of the beach near the temple on the cliff. It was meant to be an easy paddle out from behind the peak. I stashed my gear in Made's warung and waved goodbye as I plodded off along the hot deserted beach, unsure of what lay waiting for me out on that reef.My feet sank past my ankles into the coarse-grained coral sand, making each step quite an effort. It was like trying to walk through quicksand. The 300 metre walk to the cliff took well over 20 sweltering minutes. The closer I got to the waves, the bigger they looked, and the drier my mouth got as I saw the power of each wave exploding onto the reef. Did I have the nerve to surf an outside reef break totally alone? At least I hadn't seen the swarms of deadly seasnakes I'd been warned about.
After procrastinating at the water's edge, I decided to paddle the 300 metres across the lagoon, just to take a closer look at the waves. Then I could decide if it was safe or not to continue the extra 200 metres to the peak. No need to be a hero and get killed on some god-forsaken reef trying to surf alone. I could always turn back. Or so I thought...
By the time I had paddled to where the foam backed off into the lagoon, my arms already ached. I sat on my board to catch my breath, looking for a way out through the whitewater. I finally found the small gap I'd been told about, backing off into the channel.
I decided to take one last look to contemplate the danger I was getting into before making the final decision to go or not. After the stinking hot slog along the beach and the long paddle across the lagoon, I was already half exhausted, and I hadn't even got out the back yet, let alone caught a wave.
The wave faces seemed well over 8 feet, and it looked like every wave closed out after
just one or two sect ions. The coral underfoot was shallow and sharp. I felt very lonely so far from the safety of land. What was I doing here anyway? Did I really need to be taking this risk? I knew the ocean here was some of the deepest in the world, part of the Lombok continen tal divide, with strong currents and undertows. The beach was totally deserted, with just a few Balinese fishermen sailing by in outriggers, far out beyond the break. I started to think about sharks, sea snakes, coral cuts, and riptides. Looking back to the distant beach, I was struck by the ominous sight of the recently active Mount Agung volcano. Now I started worrying about volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, tidal waves ... I had almost come around to convincing myself this was far too dangerous for such an inexperienced surfer, when suddenly I realised I had been sucked out through the channel and was now looking into the breaking waves from side on. My head spun around in panic to look straight back out to sea again. Luckily I saw a lull and realised I now had no option now but to paddle immediately out past the break before a set arrived to clean me up.
Paddling quickly for almost a minute, I finally reached safety out the back. The water underneath me was a dark midnight blue colour, seemingly too deep for a wave to break. Yet eerie whirlpools bubbled up from the depths as each wave passed by. I half-heartedly paddled for a couple of thick 6 footers, but they refused to even break. I tentatively paddled in a little closer, trying to get into position to catch one of those 6 footers (My Big Mistake). I thought I was safe, well out past the break, so you can imagine my horror when I looked up to see a humungous closeout set charging towards me from way out to sea. My heart pounded as I made the split second decision that I might just be able to paddle over it. I didn't really have any other choice. I couldn't bear to even look at the first approaching wave. So I put my head down and paddled full-bore for the horizon. I cursed myself for ever getting into such a dangerous situation, beyond my abilities and way out of my depth. I was in panic mode, my head spinning with thoughts of disaster. When I finally summoned the nerve to peer up, I was sickened to see 3 ridiculously huge waves already jacking up, threatening to break another 50 metres further out. I was definitely caught inside in the worst possible way! Seven hundred metres out to sea. Sharp coral reef underneath. The biggest set I'd ever had to face about to unload onto my head. The world's deepest water ready to suck me out into a seasnake infested ocean. Would my legrope break? Could I swim that far anyway, against the current? Could those fishermen in their flimsy Balinese outriggers save me if I was swept out to sea?
It was then I realised I didn't even know how to cry "Help" in Indonesian! I struggled to calm my thoughts as I prepared to bail. I slid off the board, remembering the experienced advice I'd been given by Surfing World's Bruce Channon just prior to my first trip to Bali - aim the nose of the board straight for the beach, creating the smallest possible target for the wave to catch. The last thing I saw was the biggest, thickest, most terrifying tube I'd ever seen, breaking top-to-bottom just 5 metres in front of me. As I dived down into the darkness, I said a silent prayer and waited for the wrench on my legrope to dislocate my leg. I tried to prepare my mind for the inevitable disaster of being sucked back onto the razor-sharp coral reef. Or maybe being held under until my lungs burst. Or worst of all, snapping my legrope under the pressure of that giant wall of surging whitewater, leaving me well and truly out to sea. Honestly, I was terrified. Miraculously, the first wave passed over smoothly and easily. I popped back up to the surface,
gratefully sucking in air in preparation for the next horror wave. The advice had been invaluable - the first wave passed straight over the tail of the board and didn't catch or drag it at all. I repeated the procedure for the next wave, pushing the board towards shore, diving deep and crossing my fingers. I popped back up behind the wall of foam, scrambled onto my board and managed to just scrape over the next wave. Words can't express the relief I felt to see a flat ocean behind that last wave. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry... Slowly a ridiculous smile of relief beamed across my face as I realised I had survived a major surfing milestone, handling the largest closeout set I had ever faced till then. I said a loud "Thank you" to Bruce who's advice had worked, and another to the anonymous guy who invented the legrope. Whoever you are mate, the surfers of the world owe you heaps! I only caught a few small inside waves that day, still spooked by that terrifying closeout experience. When I finally trudged back to shore hours later, Made was waiting at the warung. He asked "How was the surf?" I suppose I should have confessed to being totally freaked, but I chickened out, trying to save face I guess. "Oh, OK I guess. Hopefully it'll be better tomorrow." I couldn't look him in the eye though, and I knew deep down he'd seen the same transparent bravado a hundred times before.
I slithered off to the furthest corner table, secretly glad no-one had witnessed my panic out the back. Sipping my coffee, I gradually came to the realisation that every surfer goes through this same kind of gut-wrenching experience, facing their fears and confronting the mental barriers. With the right equipment, advice and attitude, anyone can progress, little by little, into tackling bigger waves. Over the next month I managed to surf Nusa Dua just a few more times... but never too big and never alone - I'd learnt that lesson! And I immediately started to learn the Indonesian language - the first word on my list was "Help!"PS. The Indonesian word for help is "Tolong!"
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Saturday, November 21, 2009
Quiksilver Initiative
| «It is the surf industry’s duty to be involved in environmental policies. We know that the environment’s protection starts by raising awareness.»
Quiksilver is the first European boardriding company to have introduced an environmental unit into its business; “Quiksilver Initiative” established in 1999. It was in 2003 that Quiksilver Europe qualified the ISO 14001 standards for its Environmental Management System, a first in the surf industry. The ISO 14001 norm requires a perfect knowledge of the environment in which the company functions as well as all its impacts. Wanting to be a responsible actor, Quiksilver Europe has set up an Environmental Management System at its European headquarters in St-Jean-de-Luz. Thanks to Quiksilver Initiative, waste management has been introduced into the office and the personnel’s awareness on energy saving schemes is constantly increasing. This environmental policy applies to the company’s whole activity; from contest organisation to the choice of components in product design. In 2005, the headquarters will be equipped with a photovoltaic power station that will cover part of the company’s energy requirement. Quiksilver also continues to support actions and non-governmental organisations that work to enhance the quality of our environment, in the mountains and by the sea.
QUIKSILVER FOUNDATION Quiksilver continues to support the Tsunamis’ victims.Thanks to the Quiksilver Foundation recently set up, the Quiksilver group has rapidly been able to gather AUS$ 630,000 in order to help populations living in areas devastated by the tsunami. The foundation also created the “Nias Fund”, name taken from the famous surf zone, west of Indonesia. This initiative has been undertaken to centralise the international surfing community’s efforts and continue to raise funds to bring local assistance to those in need. SurfAid International is a humanitarian non-governmental organisation already settled in the region and mainly works to rehabilitate the Indonesians sanitary conditions. It benefits from the ‘Nias Fund’ and its team works hard to help Doctors, nurses, interpreters, nutritionists and voluntary workers that are already in the region. Along with the Indies trader II and other charter boats they have managed to approach the most secluded areas to provide medical assistance and cope with the most urgent needs.www.quiksilver.com/quiksilverfoundation
REEF CHECK / WATER CHECK The ‘Quiksilver Crossing’ is a integral part of the Reef Check program. The Indies Trader I has scientific teams relaying each other to verify the quality and evolution of coral reefs. In 2002, during its European stops, the Indies Trader underwent an analysis, thanks to its onboard lab, to determine the quality of the water in areas were water sports are present. Due to the partnership with Plymouth University and SAS (Surfers Against Sewage) it has been proved that it is technically possible to survey areas other than public beaches, thus supporting the revised 1976 directive. In September 2004, the ‘Quiksilver Crossing’ enlarged its fleet with a Seaplane, Completing its surf search equipment.
ARVAM / REUNION ISLAND The partnership established between Arvam and Quiksilver Initiative on the Hermitage, Saint Leu and Etang Salé surf spots allows the survey of the reef’s health. The Reef Check methodology is guiding the surfers/scientists in the analysis of coral expansion, due to the impact of human activity and pollution in threatened areas. In 2005, Quiksilver Initiative provided gear to survey the bacteria levels in the water of these 3 spots. A “Reef Check and Water Check” brief will be produced after a year’s work on this new project.
BACTERIA LEVELS IN WATER CAMPAIGN Quiksilver Initiative supports Surfrider Foundation Europe, in its will to get regular bacterial level check in water sports areas, and especially on surf spots. This campaign aims to raise awareness of local, national and European governments in order to include water sports activities to the official regulations in order to guarantee a sanitary security identical to that existing for the users of coastal areas, may they be bathers or surfers. This campaign also pushes and supports all actions aiming at the creation of complementary coastal surveys that will, in time, allow for an increased knowledge of our coastal environment in order to better protect it. |
ANSEL / BRITTANY, FRANCE
5 years on: Since March 2000, the ANSEL association gathers waste on the south Finistere region coast all year round (35 tonnes since its creation). Quiksilver Initiative supports ANSEL that also organises awareness raising venues and partakes in various events as nature protection also goes through the marine environment knowledge.
IKASTXIKI SURF QUIKSILVER BASQUE COUNTRY, SPAIN
This surfing tour addresses youth aged from 10 to 15 that come from Spanish Basque schools. Quiksilver Initiative’s presence on this event boosts the importance of keeping the ocean and the environmen clean. With the Basque surfing federation’s help, the youth at the contest can participate to drawing workshops and enhance the importance of wildlife and flora that live from the ocean.
SURFAPULITO/ ITALY
Surfapulito has been very active in the past months. The best possible recognition is highlighted in its partnership with the largest Italian environmental organisation, Legambiente. This organisation helps in relaying information to the media in order to raise awareness about cleaning beaches in Naples, Portonovo and Gaeta. For spring/summer 2005, Quiksilver and Legambiente foresee the organisation of events to raise funds for the stricken people of Sumatra, following the December tsunami.
SAS / QUIKSILVER ECO TOUR - U.K.
For 6 years, Quiksilver has supported the SAS Eco Tour, an awareness- raising program aimed at the youth; treating about ocean cleanliness across the whole country. Last Year, the Eco Tour left the educational framework to approach beach users and raise awareness on the threats to the coastal environment. Addressing children that surf, teaches them early about the respect of the marine eco-system. Many Quiksilver team riders, amongst which Gary Elkerton and Spencer Hargraves, have joined the Eco tour to pass the message on.
QUIKSILVER ECO-CHALLENGE, HOLLAND
For the third year running, Quiksilver Holland has associated the surf spirit to environmental awareness in the Quiksilver Eco-Challenge. 2004 saw the Eco-Challenge unfold on the great Scheveningen Boulevard (North Sea). Many volunteers gathered to clean the beach with the support of local officials. A skateboard ramp has been set up to attract more youth. Because of the lack of waves, organisers have suggested a paddle race, thus pushing participation. In 2005, the presence of “Natuurmonumenten”, one of the greatest Dutch environmental organisations, should be able to attract, along with Quiksilver Initiative even more people, especially youth, waking awareness for wildlife and flora just as for beach pollution.
SURF-FESTIVAL / FEHMARN, GERMANY
This festival is simply the largest German outdoor windsurf exhibition. During 4days, around 15,000 windsurfers come from the whole of Germany and Scandinavia . Many champions come and share their passion with the crowds, turning the venue into a real festival. Quiksilver Initiative informs the visitors of waste’s lifespan in the environment and partakes to the organisation of a great cleaning of the beach with the youth and surfers.
SOULWAVE / KLITMÖLLER, DENMARK
The Soulwave is both a surf and windsurf event that will boast its 10th venue in 2005. Throughout the past 10 years, many famous surfers have gathered for 4-5 days to share their passion. The Soulwave is well known for its excellent surfing and partying conditions. Quiksilver Initiative informs this community of waste’s lifespan and helps keeping the venues’ area clean. Plastic garbage bags are handed out for free to the hundreds of campers along the coast.
Evian and Quiksilver Initiative side by side on the water and environment preservation theme.
Once again this year, Evian is a major partner on Quiksilver’s surfing and snowboarding events. Beyond the sport partnership, the two brands have decided to organise common ‘on site’ animations in order to raise awareness about recycling plastic and about the Ramsar Convention drafted by UNESCO (first worldwide inter-governmental treaty on the conservation and rational use of natural resources). Every bottle handed out to the public is accompanied by a message on the recycling of plastic bottles. With around 5000 bottles handed out on the last day of the Quiksilver Pro France 2004, this initiative will allow to optimise chances that every bottle will find its way to the appropriate bin.
Quiksilver Initiative keeps its involvement on the European boardriding events organised by Quiksilver. Under Quiksilver Initiative’s tent, an ecological awareness-raising program has been launched. The water cycle and the waste’s lifespan themes allow visitors to take notice of the need to respect the environment.
ASSOCIATIONS
GREEN GESTURES
Surfing among shipwrecks and hyenas in Namibia
| ||||
Interview with David Nuuhiwa
When did you start surfing? DN: I was six when I did my first contest, in Hawaii. What was it that first got you into the water? DN: "Paipo" boarding (like a skim board made by Hawaiians) motivated me to get on a longer board. Who were some of your early influences and mentors? DN: Early influences were the beach boys of Hawaii and here is a list of some guys I thought were sooo cool; Nappy Napoleon, Bobby Achoy, Raymond Marie, Donald Takayama, and B.K. Of all the places you have traveled to and surfed, what is your favorite whether for the waves, people, etc? Tavarua, Fiji goes back in time at least 100yrs. The waves and people are awesome! What motivated you to start shaping and designing surfboards? The only motivation to shape was to make me board quick! I was practicing for a contest at Huntington Beach Pier and the lifeguard kept throwing me out cuz of blackball (method used at HB to keep surfers out of water, so the swimmers wouldn't get hit by the boards. But they allowed skimboards and boogie boards). I said what's the dimensions I can ride? I went home and shaped the shortest twin fin fish, ever! I ran into the same lifeguard at a dealership, where I got my truck! I only help with the designs, leave the shape to the masters, such as Steve Walden is happening! In your entire quiver of boards what is your favorite to ride? Favorite board is the oldest! A Bing/Nuuhiwa Noserider, or a Nuuhiwa Noserider "Comp" Model, and I am going to try out my new design, called the "Ray" this weekend at Waldens. With the growing popularity of Longboarding and the "retro" movement a lot of people are starting to explore the midlength single fin designs of the late 60's early 70's. What do you think of the rediscovery of these mid-size shapes? FUN! Your surfing has covered several decades of our sports history. What do you feel was the best decade to be a surfer? Why? Best decade to be a surfer was the 60s-70s, Soulful! You reached a level of popularity few surfers even dream of . You have been considered by many one of the greatest "soul men" surfing has ever seen and have influenced countless numbers of surfers. What do you think of being considered so influential in surfings history? I guess, I don't think about it, doesn't make me any money, haha, but has got me in a lot of doors. (My wife gets bummed when a groupie showed up at the backdoor!) Who do you feel is the most influential surfer out there today? Most influential surfer is probably Joel Tudor and Kelly Slater, oh and Donald Takayama, he helps promote so many guys. He's too cool! In your life and career as a surfer what do you feel has been the biggest challenge you have faced? New goals and challenges and bad water, I want to clear! Where would you like to see surfing a few years from now? A much different level. I want to see surfing respected #1! I want to see the contests giving money to charities and not think of themselves so much. I would like to see the competitors getting higher purses and us "old dudes" put on a tour like the golfers. For surfers to remember God made all this water, and us! Tell me your favorite surf story or memory , I am sure you have tons of them. My favorite memory was making Rainbow Bridge, with Jimi Hendrix. I never surfed better, it was awesome to surf and be filmed and in the same movie with him and his music! Sit around and talk with him, what a gas! What advise would you like to pass on to today's surfers? My advice to new surfers is not to take it so seriously, have fun! Respect longboarders as well as short and become one with it, instead of splitting it up! It makes me sad when Hawaiians or Polynesians started surfing, and then to hear some young guy yell "longboarder!" we are all on the same team and someday they will enjoy the art of longboarding. If you are a contestant, not to make a big scene if a judge has a poor ruling, our children are watching. And, oh, I wish I would have practiced what I preach! ****************************** After this interview concluded Jan (David's wife) offered this favorite story: One of David's favorite stories happened in Florida. We were on a trip with Donald Takayama, Sid (his wife), Dale Dobson, and a few others. We all had a ball, DT rented a "disco" looking van all lit up with tiny lights. We all looked like Cheech and Chong everywhere we went. We went to Mike Tabeling's house saw his cannons and dablooms he collected from the sea, ate one dozen blue crabs each. But the best part was David had gone into a magic shop and got cigarette "loads". Waiting for the perfect moment, Donald asked for a cigarette ,David had placed it perfectly in the pack. Kaboom!, right in the Daytona Speedway. There must have been 20 people with us, all eyes on Donald, we about fell out of the grandstand! David put about 5 loads in and it almost blew off DT's eyebrows, but to see the blown cig hanging from his lips was priceless! David continued through the next week catching Donald again, and any unsuspecting surfer. He blasted Sid in an elegant restaurant. |
Bing Copeland talking about pioneer Big-Wave Surfing
Mike Brock Interview Series
Mike Brock interviews Bing Copeland
Introduction:
I first had the opportunity to meet Bing Copeland a couple of years ago when I was still shaping. Over the past few years I have learned a lot from him and his experiences. Master shaper, big wave pioneer, successful business man, and much more. Its easy to get lost in his long line of accomplishments, yet he still stays open to "talk story", and share all of his wisdom to anyone willing to ask. Bing now splits his time between his homes in Baja and Idaho, and at 66yrs old proves to be a great resource for us all to learn a little more about surfings history from.
Bing Copeland interview
Thanks again for granting this interview.
Mind if we talk about the old days of big wave pioneering?
*Sure, but you have to remember it´s been over 45 years since my time of big wave surfing.
That´s no problem. So when did you first go to Hawaii?
*In October of 1955 six of us flew to the islands. It was before jet planes were used for commercial flights so from Los Angeles it was about a ten hour flight. We were all between 18 and 19 years old.
Who did you travel over with?
*The six of us were, myself, Rick Stoner, Sonny Vardeman, Steve Voorhees, Mike Bright and George Kapoo.
Any others already over there at the time?
*Some of the other guys we surfed with were, Buzzy Trent Walt Hoffman, Peter Cole, Rcky Grigg, George Downing, Fred Van Dyke and Greg Noll when he came over from the states.
Any of the local guys kind of help coach you on the waves?
*George Downing was a big help teaching us the line ups and how to get in when we lost our boards in big waves.
How was the travel over?
*This was before board bags so we all used our sleeping bags to ship our boards in. We all were riding Velzy balsa boards.
Where did you stay?
*The first night we slept on the floor at George Kapoo´s sister´s house. She owned "Lilly´s Lei Stand" in Waikiki. Then the second day we rented a little one room place about a block from the beach and surfed "Queens" every day for two weeks. We all chipped in and bought an old car for $60. and moved out to the country where we rented a quonset hut just off of the point at Makaha.
It must have been quite a challenge on the equipment of the time to start riding that size surf.
*Luckily we were able to gradually work up to riding bigger and bigger waves so it wasn´t the shock of just paddling out in giant surf. We had everything from fun 6´ waves to 18´ to 20´. When your sitting outside at Makaha on a big day it´s pretty awesome. First of all you´re a long way out and these giant walls are coming at you and you have no idea when you take off if your going to make it all the way to the bowl at the end of the wave. If you do you had to ride high on the wave then drop through the bowl when it sucks out. This was all before leash´s so when we didn´t make a wave we had to straighten out and try to prone it out which is pretty hairy on large waves. we all got in really great shape and became pretty good swimmers.
How long did you focus on Makaha?
*We stayed at Makaha for two months and were running out of money. At that point rick stoner and I were in the Coast Guard reserves and found out we could go active and be able to stay in the islands for two more years.
How long after this did you start thinking of Waimea?
*On the week ends or when we had vacation time we would head out to Haleiwa where we could stay at the beach park and surf the whole North Shore. Every day we would drive from Haleiwa to sunset beach which at the time was our favorite wave to surf. When you go from Haleiwa to sunset you went past Waimea Bay, we always looked at it and wondered if we could ride it. But Sunset was so good, and never crowded. I remember getting pretty cocky at Sunset and had the feeling I could ride anything it could throw at me until one wave (and not a very big one) pounded me good and when I finally reached the beach I decided that I had better have a lot more respect for the ocean. From then on I started to use my head and make better wave selection. I think then, at twenty years old, is when I really grew up.
Ok so you know I have to ask, tell me about the first day.
*One day in early november 1957, sunset closed out, and we went to look at Waimea. There was a bunch of us watching the waves when greg noll said he was going out. When your that young it´s kind of like i´ll go if you go. so we went out and rode it and it really wasn´t that big a deal.
I´m not too sure about that.
*Well the waves were big, about 20´, but if you didn´t wipe out on the take off you would just shoot out into the channel.
Still pretty impressive being able to claim being one of the first.
Did any of you imagine the impact that day would have?
*I honestly don´t know if it was the first day it was ridden or not. We really were not thinking about firsts, just surfing.
Exactly who else was there?
*If my memory is right some of the others besides Greg and myself that went out that day, was Pat Curren, Mike Stang, Mickey Munoz & Del Cannon.
Were you still riding the Velzy balsa
*Well, the board I took with me was a 9´4" Velzy balsa. After the first year it was pretty wasted so I sold it and found Joe Quigg on diamond head and had him shape me a 9´ balsa that was a little more appropriate for the island waves. I glassed the board myself on board the Coast Guard ship that I was on.
You make it all sound like just another day surfing.
I always pictured it as a lot more intimidating.
*Remember this took place 36 years ago and memories have a tendency to fade. Yes even though we were used to riding big waves it is always hairy and intense when you paddle out into large waves and especially when it´s an area that you have never surfed. You don´t know what the bottom is like, how the rip´s run, how and where the waves will break. And mostly you have no line ups which are critical being in position. I do remember that it wasn´t really bumpy the real challenge was where to sit and where to take off. And, you are right the shore break at waimea always was difficult to time and punch out through. Once through the shore break it was a pretty clear paddle out, unless it was closing out. And if Waimea is closing out you don´t want any part of it.
So what´s one off your fondest memories of early Hawaii?
*When Rick and I were in the Coast Guard we bought an old Plymouth station wagon and painted the back side windows out then made a bunk on one side with two boxes under it for each of our clothes and for the next two years, when we were not on duty we lived in our woody. We had a key to the showers at the Ala Moana Yacht Harbor where we surfed great lefts in the channel..
I´ll let you get going now. thanks again for the memories.
*Good luck and surf for life.
Interview with Paul Strauch
Mike Brocks: When did you start surfing? Paul Strauch: My father started me surfing at Waikiki when I was four years old. He grew up two blocks off Kuhio Beach and spent most of his youth surfing and fishing along the coastline from Diamond Head to the Ala Wai Harbor. He knew all the surfing reefs in the area and all the Waikiki beach boys. It was a childhood fantasy for me… Being pushed into that first wave on his redwood plank, quietly skimming through the water and watching all the fish and beautiful coral reef pass by underneath the board was magical. I'll never forget my first wave at Baby Queens. It was so exciting I thought my heart would burst right through my chest... And it's been that way for me ever since then! M.B.: What was it that got you into the water?
I remember carefully watching him through each step of the entire process. He was quiet, reserved and very humble... Extremely meticulous and patient, and health conscious. I remember he only ate raw vegetables, fresh fruit, whole grain cereal and fresh fruit. It took him three weeks to finish both surfboards. We took them to Waikiki and baptized them with a Hawaiian ritual before entering the ocean. My 8'6" Tom Blake balsa was so light and maneuverable by comparison to my 8' finless hollow board. Now I could really put my weight on each rail and reverse my direction with ease. It was like night and day. What a remarkable difference from the redwood and hollow boards I had been riding up to that point. Who were your early influences and mentors? My father, Tom Blake and George Downing were guiding lights in my surfing. Their knowledge of the ocean, currents, winds, wave intervals, reefs, bottom topography, hydrodynamics, surfboard design and fundamental elements in the sport were unparalleled to me. I learned so much from each one and thank them for their patience and many gifts to me. There were others at Waikiki whose style and talent I admired because they really stood out from the rest in the crowd. These surfers exuded so much confidence and poise, they were like super heroes to me… Richard Kauo, Blackie Makalena, Blackout, Squirlie Carvalho, Rabbit Kekai, George Downing, Dingo, Dickie-Boy Abbey, Maurice Ikeda, Alan Gomes, Conrad Canha, to mention just a few. They were my heroes in the surf and they commanded respect. There was always a hierarchy and you quickly learned to respect your mentors and elders in surfing. In Hawaii, you learned from your elders… Those who had more experience, better equipment, respect, style, patience, humility, and dignity. It was personal. No team thing, just you and your mentors. There was etiquette and courtesy. It required great personal effort and commitment to progress. You learned about the sea, and its many different moods. You discovered how to flow in harmony with the movement. Personal pride and accomplishment were yours. You shared the experience with others. You became the mentor. This is surfing in Hawaii. What built your interest in big wave riding and was there any particular day or event you remember as being particularly significant to you? I started going to Makaha when I was about 14 years old. I entered the Makaha International Surfing Championships in 1958 and placed second and won the division the following year. In 1958 I got my first foam board, a 9'8" yellow Hobie pintail, through George Downing. It was this board that made the second major impact on my surfing. It was much lighter than my Blake balsa and extremely responsive. It paddled faster, turned on a dime and would scoot forward under sections of the wave when you shifted your body weight forward and back and from rail to rail. The Hobie worked great in surf up to about six feet. However, when the surf rose over six to eight feet, the width in the tail section caused the board to skip over the surface chop and you lost both speed and control. At 15 my Dad and I went to meet with Bob Shepherd and Joe Daniels at the surfboard shop called Swim Boats in Kakaako, just south of downtown Honolulu. Bob was a fireman and master shaper, and Joe did all the glass work. Bob shaped a beautiful 10'4" balsa gun for me. I christened this board at Sunset Beach with George Downing. It was my first time there and George and I sat on the beach for over an hour as he showed me the lineup doe the west peak and the north point rides. He explained how all the water rushed straight in, over the reef to shore, and turned into a strong rip tide which ran parallel to the beach and then went back out the sandy channel. We timed the sets and wave intervals, watched people swim in for their boards and go right back out the channel riptide when they swam out of the incoming whitewater line. George really knew his stuff in big surf. He was the Man, the main Guru for big waves without any question!
Later after lunch, Hobie Alter, who was out in the morning, offered me his 10'6" gun to try. I took it out and paddled into my first wave with all the confidence I gained in my morning run and just got clobbered. His board was longer, thicker and heavier and didn't turn like mine. I lost control right after I dropped in and was held down so long with no air left that I began to see stars. I thought it was all over. Somehow I managed to get back to the surface, and slowly worked my way to the beach. It was vivid wake up call for me, very humbling indeed. A wipeout I'll never forget. After that first day at Sunset I used to day dream constantly about riding big surf using the same techniques and "hot-dogging" style as in smaller waves. But, I learned in order to do surf this way, you had to have the right equipment. Board design made all the difference in riding large surf. You needed experience and coordination, timing, good judgment, physical conditioning. But without the right equipment, a properly designed board, it was impossible. You were doomed! Are you still active in surfing today, and what types of boards do you use on a regular basis?
I spend a lot of time at the Point at San Onofre where the surf is very consistent, mellow and family oriented with predominately longboarders. There's no real contention in the water, and everyone has a good time. I'm the current president of the Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre, a 12-year old surf club designed to perpetuate surfing and Hawaii's culture, and we meet every Sunday for a relaxing day at the beach. We host an annual Polynesian festival and luau in San Clemente over the Memorial Day Holiday to share and perpetuate Hawaii's culture and the Aloha spirit with everyone here in southern California. It's become a very popular event over the years. In addition, our club makes an annual trip to Hawaii every year to surf and relax on the north shore of Oahu. It's become like one large extended family…Check it out on the web at www.hawaiiansurfclub.com and be sure to click on the "Talk Story" section. There are some hilarious stories to enjoy there. There has been a major resurgence in longboards during the 90's and now especially with the 70's-style, heavy weight, noseriders with volan cloth and single fins. Why do think this board design has become so popular now?
If you watch Joel Tudor, currently one of the best longboarders in the world, you will see elegant Longboard surfing at its finest. Joel Tudor has spent years developing his own surfing choreography into a precise, flowing wavedance. His super-smooth, graceful style has developed a huge following among longboarders everywhere, and you can see young surfers trying to emulate his technique, coordination and style. What is your opinion on tow-in surfing in search for larger waves? Tow-in surfing has opened up an entirely new horizon in riding big waves without question. It has magnified the requirements for being fully prepared to ride the outer reefs. It takes an intense commitment to physical training, special equipment and boards, partner relationship, and a vast expanse of knowledge that can only come from first hand experience. In 1996 I was hired to scout the top big wave riders in Hawaii for a feature film, called In God's Hands. I helped to arrange a session at Jaws with Maui hellmen Laird Hamilton, Derrick Doerner, Dave Kalama, Rush Randle, Buzzy Kerbox and Pete Cabrinha. I flew over from Honolulu to Maui with Brian Keaulana, Brock Little, Mike Stewart and a cameraman and we drove out to Peahi. We stood on the edge of the cliffs watching these guys tow-in to perfect 18 - 25-foot Jaws for over an hour. Neither Brian, Brock nor Mike had ever surfed there and they paid close attention to the whole set up. Then we drove back to the launch area and met the Maui crew there for their lunch break. Laird and Derrick were extremely serious about surfing Jaws and reviewed all the safety procedures to be followed with all of us. They emphasized Jaws was a real life and death situation and didn't want any showboating going on out there. I can't over-emphasize their seriousness about tow-in surfing Jaws, and I respect them for it. After lunch they all headed out the small boat harbor on jet skis and several auxiliary boats for Jaws. I drove back to help set up the cameras with our crew. For next two hours someone in the group rode every wave that came through Jaws. One of the teeth-clinching moments came when Mike Stewart was towed into his first wave, a giant 20-footer on his boogie board. Everyone on the cliff held their breath as he left go of the tow rope and bounced three times to the bottom of the wave, and then got completely tubed before popping out on to the shoulder. It was an awesome wave. Another chilling ride came when both Brian and Brock were both towed into a 25- foot monster. Brian was on the shoulder and Brock on the inside. Brock faded too deep into the pocket and as he made his bottom turn he knew there was no way he could make it out. So, he just pulled up high right into the pocket as the whole thing buried him and he was snuffed like a rag doll. He was held down and dragged for nearly 60 underwater and finally surfaced. He was picked up by Billy, one of the jet ski drivers and towed out into the channel while his board was trashed on the rocky shoreline. Watching the entire wipeout from the cliff, I wasn't sure Brock would be able to pull through all that punishment, but thank God he did. From Brock's mishap I learned how important your ski-driving partner is to setting the takeoff up and your survival. If he drives too deep, you're history! On the north shore when the outer reefs are breaking, sometimes an outside set will break a hundred yards farther out than the last one. You've got to be prepared for this to happen all the time when the surf gets super-big. It takes a great deal of practice, area familiarity and seamanship. It's dead serious stuff. Your survival depends on it. I worry over the growing probability for accidents as more surfers venture out into the realm of extreme surfing due to a number of reasons like inexperience, faulty equipment and a disregard for safety precautions. It seems the fantasy challenge for big wave hunters to tow into bigger and bigger waves will continue as will the personal liability factor. The raw natural power behind waves with 60 to 70-foot faces leaves very little room for error to survive. Your life as a surfer has covered several decades. When do you feel was the best decade to be a surfer? That's very difficult to answer. I think every surfer has an indelible mental and emotional imprint etched into his or her memory bank of his or her very first wave. For me Waikiki will always have a special place in my heart and memory. There's so much history there and it's so beautiful sitting out in the ocean and looking back at lush Manoa valley and seeing the brilliant colors of the rainbows against the glistening sun...What a majestic sight that is! For anyone asked this question, it becomes very personal regardless of the particular time frame they choose. Surfing is very personal. That's exactly what separates surfing from all the other sports. It's all up to you as an individual. There's no team or other players to always consider. It's you, your board and the ocean and no one can take that personal aspect away from you. For me it was back in the early 50's riding a redwood plank across the inside reef at Baby Queens in Waikiki and watching the fish swim by as I walked on water. I'll own that moment forever. You have been praised by many for the influence and contributions you have made to the art of riding waves. How does it make you feel to be so well recognized? What do you feel has been your greatest contribution? The Paul Strauch Cheater Five?
Who do you feel is the most influential surfer today? There are so many surfers who are considered leaders of the sport today. I admire all of them for their incredible skills, dedication and raw talent in all types of surf. Right now without question, one of these surfing icons has to be Kelly Slater. He's super-human when it comes to surfing skills. His dexterity, timing and talent is truly awesome. Now he's also venturing into the extreme realm of super large surf, too. He's definitely capable of taking small wave performance surfing to an entirely new level in big surf. Just watch him. He's already there! Do you have any advice for today's surfers? Yes I do. Remember the thrill of your first wave. It's the essence of surfing. Find that feeling every time you ride a wave so you can laugh out loud because you're doing what you love. And… Smile! It's contagious! |
P.S.: As a child my lungs were underdeveloped and I had trouble breathing. My parents took me to the ocean to increase my physical strength and endurance. They felt the ocean activity would increase my appetite and build me up. I started out with a small paipo board in the shore break and slowly progressed to a surf mat, redwood plank, hollow board and finally at 12 years old I got a balsa board with a swallow tail.
Following our beachside observation, I paddled out with George and surfed all morning for over three hours without incident. I clearly remember the surf was in the 8 to 10 with occasional 12-foot sets rolling through, super clean with clear skies and a mild offshore blowing. My new Shepherd balsa gun was super fast and would come off the bottom with no drag and keep accelerating from the speed of drop and easily make the wave. It was exhilarating to go so fast. I watched everyone else and they all seemed to take off on an angle rather than drop straight down. Most of the time their take offs were so late that they would bounce down the face and couldn't hold the tail of their boards in the wave, loose control and spin out. If I timed it right, I could go drive my board almost straight down the face, shift my position and weight to the tail section of the board, bank hard off the bottom, take two steps forward with my weight on the inside rail, level the board while in a crouch and then rocket forward from all the follow through and speed. This take off sequence worked really well at Sunset. In fact, I found that I could get so much speed out of my board from a well-timed bottom turn that the board seemed to almost squirt out ahead. My Shepherd gun worked like a dream!
I am very active in surfing now. I surf about four to five times a week. Living in San Clemente where there are nine breaks within five minutes of each other and very consistent all year round. Although the surf in this area only breaks over 8' a few times a year, you can find surf at least 300 days of the year. I use about five different boards on a regular basis; two 10' small wave longboards, a 8'8" semi-gun, 10'6" gun and 11'2" fun board. I prefer to ride a longboard here in California due to the smaller surf. I love to noseride and the thin, glassy morning surf here offer a premium ride for that purpose.
In the 60's and 70's, one of the most important aspects in surfing was style. If you wanted to improve your surfing, you had to demonstrate your experience and control by looking smooth. Casually turning, walking to the nose to trim and then back to the tail before cutting back and then repeating the process. As your surfing progressed you would ride each wave as if it were like a choreographed dance. The best surfers always rode with the smoothest style and repertoire. They stood out from the crowd with their casual elegance and always looked so poised and in control. You would carefully studied your surfing idols and try to mimic all of their moves and developed your own style. You practiced the same maneuvers over and over again until you could perform the entire dance without hesitation or jerky movements. You learned how to pull out over the top of the wave and glide slowly to a stop while reversing the direction of your board so it pointed back to the lineup as you casually dropped down to the prone position to paddle back out to the takeoff area. You would slowly develop your own personal surfing style by combining all the best maneuvers from all the surfers you admired. All the good surfers did this. It was just part of the flow in surfing.
I haven't the faintest clue on how to answer this question. Having surfed through the surfboard evolution from redwood planks, hollow boards, balsa, foam and new super light composites and all the design improvements, I can say it's been personally fulfilling in every respect. Learning to smile while using body weight displacement and physical coordination to functionally maneuver a long, heavy object to stay in the critical part of the wave while trying to appear in complete control has been my objective since a child. I guess that's it…that's my answer. Surf with a smile. Yes, if I can be remembered for one thing it would be my smile. You can't have fun without smiling, can you?Surfitness improves your all-round surfing performance
Surfitness Circuit Training
Work for 40 seconds Rest for 20 seconds
In the fitness world there are few steadfast rules to follow. The following principle however, is accepted by all educated and experienced fitness professionals. The S.A.I.D. principle - Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. Simply put, you only get specifically what you train for. For example; Running will not make your chest bigger and bench pressing will not help you win a marathon.
So, any exercises you can do that closely mimic the aspects of surfing will help your surfing.
Like most explosive sports, surfing is a circuit- like event. (start-stop-start-stop) So it only makes sense to pick exercises that work your energy systems the same way. Circuit training is by far the most superior form of endurance training for surfing. Remember to use exercises that look and feel like surfing during your circuits. Here is an example:-
Surfitness Circuit Training
Work for 40 seconds Rest for 20 seconds
Perform exercise for 40 seconds, rest for 20 seconds and go on to the next exercise.
Go through the circuit 3 times to start.
<> Work for 40 seconds Rest for 20 seconds
Perform exercise for 40 seconds, rest for 20 seconds and go on to the next exercise.
Go through the circuit 3 times to start.
<> Work for 40 seconds Rest for 20 seconds
Perform exercise for 40 seconds, rest for 20 seconds and go on to the next exercise.
Go through the circuit 3 times to start.
<> Work for 40 seconds Rest for 20 seconds
Perform exercise for 40 seconds, rest for 20 seconds and go on to the next exercise.
Go through the circuit 3 times to start.
Exercise Descriptions
1) Squat
2) Ball Pushup
3) Ball swimmer
4) Band Rotation
5) Ball Balance
Work for 40 seconds Rest for 20 seconds
Perform exercise for 40 seconds, rest for 20 seconds and go on to the next exercise.
Go through the circuit 3 times to start.
The right kind of strength training is essential to performance and injury prevention. We know we don’t need the strength of a football player or a bodybuilder to surf, so we shouldn’t train like one. Get your strength through functional surfing like moves (see example) to get proper surfing strength. Makes sense right?
SurFitness developed this program because they were sick and tired of seeing surfers and other water people training like body builders. When you train with an integrated approach, you train for function, not aesthetics. This program represents years of research, feedback and tons of positive results in improving the way we all move and how we perform in and out of the water. Check out http://www.surfitness.com
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